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soldering it in position All resistors are mounted to the top of the PC board but note that some of them have one lead soldered to the top copper as well as the bottom copper Once the resistors are in place, you can use excess resistor leads to allow connection from one side of the board to the other side, since this project uses a two-sided circuit board Each pin-through or through-hole is fitted by simply passing a wire through the hole in the board, then soldering it on both sides and trimming off the excess lead lengths The small ceramic capacitors can now all be installed on the left-hand side of the board Note that some of these also have their cold leads soldered on both sides of the board, as indicated by the red dots Once they re in, install the MKT capacitors and the electrolytic capacitors, making sure that the latter are all correctly orientated Use the chart shown in Table 23-2 to help locate the small capacitors from the parts pile Often small capacitors do not have their actual value printed on them but instead use a three-digit code to represent the actual value Finally go ahead and mount the trimmer capacitors VC1 and VC2 These should be mounted so that their adjustment rotors are connected to earth (this makes it much easier to align the receiver later) It s simply a matter of orientating them on the board Next, we will move on to installing the RF chokes RFC2 and RFC3 are both pre-wound (10 H and 68 H respectively) but RFC1 needs to be wound on an F29 ferrite bead It s very easy to wind though, because it requires only three turns of 025 mm enameled copper wire

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REGNOT 2 REGCANC regcanc [SMSMWI] regnot [SMSMWI] 4 3

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don t forget to fit its tap connection lead as well This can be made from a resistor lead off-cut, since it s very short It connects to a point 1 3 of a turn up from the cold (earth) end of the coil, ie just above half-way up the side of the first turn The final coil to wind is quad detector coil L4 Unlike the others, this is wound on a 483 mm OD former with a base and a copper shield can It s wound from 20 turns of 025 mm enameled copper wire and tuned with an F16 ferrite slug Coil formers with ferrite slugs are difficult to locate, check the Appendix You could also experiment with a small junk IF transformer can You could try and unwind the existing coil and re-winding your own coil over the plastic former You must make sure that there is a ferrite slug in the center of the coil former Once L4 is wound, and installed onto the board, cover it with its shield can You can next mount the two ceramic filters X1 and X2 These devices can be fitted either way around but make sure that their pins are pushed through the board holes as far as they ll go before you solder them underneath The next step is to construct and install the small metal shield around coil L2, C10 and most of the components in the drain circuit of Q1 This shield is U-shaped and measures 20 mm high, with the front and back arms 36 mm long and the side section 20 mm long The bottom edges of all three sides are soldered to the board s ground-plane in a number of places, to hold it firmly in position and to ensure it stays at earth potential The two 10-turn trimpots (VR4 and VR5) can now be soldered in position at the front-center of the board They can then be followed by the three main control pots, which are all 16 mm diameter types Trim each pot s spindle length to about 9 mm before fitting it and make sure you fit each one in its correct position as they are all different In particular, note that VR1 and VR3 both have a value of 50 k ohm but VR1 is a linear pot while VR3 is a log type After installing the potentiometers, it s a good idea to connect their metal shield cans together and then run a lead to the board s top copper to earth them This is done using a length of tinned copper wire, with a short length of insulated hookup wire then connecting them to the board copper at front right.

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