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Now turn up RF gain control VR1 to about midway and use an alignment tool or a very small screwdriver to adjust trimmer cap C10 until you find a peak in the voltage reading on a multi-meter If you can t find a peak, you may have to pull the turns on coil L2 slightly further apart to reduce its inductance Once the peak is found, adjust VC2 carefully to maximize the meter reading (the multi-meter is reading the RSSI voltage from IC1, so it s essentially showing the received signal strength) When you re certain that the L2/C10 circuit is tuned to 1375 MHz, check the actual voltage reading of the meter If it s more than 25V, reduce the output level from the RF generator until the multi-meter reading drops to about 20V Now you re ready to peak the receiver s input tuned circuit ie L1 and VC1 This is done in exactly the same way as for L2 and C10 Just adjust C4 slowly until the multi-meter indicates a peak and then carefully set C4 for the maximum peak reading If you can t find another peak, you may need to pull the turns of L1 slightly further apart as before The final alignment step is to set the slug in quadrature detector coil L4 to the correct position for optimum FM demodulation of the 55 MHz IF signals This is done by first switching the signal generator so that it s still producing a 1375 MHz signal but this should now be frequency modulated preferably with a 24 kHz tone and a deviation of about 25 kHz Now, connect an 8 ohm speaker to the receiver s speaker socket (CON3) and turn up the audio gain control (VR3) to about the 10 o clock position You may not be able to hear the 24 kHz modulating signal at this stage but in any case, slowly and carefully adjust the slug in L4 using a non-magnetic alignment tool Sooner or later you ll start to hear the 24 kHz tone and you should also be able to tune the coil for maximum audio level and minimum distortion and noise Once this has been done, the basic alignment of your weather satellite receiver is finished and it s ready for final alignment using the signals from a weather satellite But before you ll be able to do this, you ll need to build or buy a suitable antenna and perhaps a small masthead pre-amplifier to boost the signal if necessary The best antenna for APT weather satellite reception is either a turnstile or quadrifillar antenna.

There is an entirely different class of handheld devices ruggedized tools for specific vertical industries, combinations of bar code readers, and data collection terminals that are acquiring a whole new range of capabilities Some of these now accommodate voice processing (including voice over IP and voice to text conversion, so that workers can vocalize and read" data into their computers), digital image and video capture, signature capture, transflective color displays, and radiolocation A subset of these terminals the iron man," or ruggedized laptops, utilize Pentium processors and standard VGA screens An emerging class of ruggedized devices also have adopted the Windows CE operating system, which eases programming for IT departments Elements of ruggedization will become incorporated into the new generation of hybrid" telephone-PDA devices Most likely, all wireless devices will connect at least two ways through the wide area cellular/packet networks; and through the wireless LAN networks (as exemplified by the 80211 standard) As computing and communica-

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Figure 23-7 Quadrifillar antenna the receiver If you are using large diameter coax, it may be necessary to use a UHF-BNC adapter Another alternative is to use a short length of smaller diameter, more flexible, coax between the main cable and the receiver That cable can have a BNC plug on one end and a UHF plug and double female adapter on the other If you use a 137 MHz pre-amplifier, you can overcome some cable losses by installing the pre-amp right up at the antenna This establishes a low noise figure before going through the loss of the cable If you find you do need a 137 MHz mast-head pre-amplifier, you can build one or buy one from Hamtronics or Ramsey Electronics We do not recommend trying to feed B+ to power the pre-amp through the coax as some enthusiasts do It doesn t pay to try to save the small cost of lightweight hook-up wire and de-grade the performance of the pre-amp in the process Run a separate wire pair to power the pre-amplifier if needed

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